Some people use the term “bespoke” as a synonym for “custom” (which can mean just about anything). We use “bespoke” to mean that our handmade suits, shirts, coats, and sweaters are all made based on a unique pattern that we draft from scratch for each client based on their unique measurements and style preferences. “Bespoke” is different from “made to measure,” which utilizes block patterns which are then manipulated to some extent for a particular person (and the manufacturing usually takes place in a factory, often overseas and usually without interim fittings). Our process involves multiple fittings in our space downtown Portland and we utilize the highest quality materials and methods to be found anywhere in the world.
Yes and no. If someone simply says "make me look good," our default style could best be described as a contemporary take on traditional British tailoring. I.e., the waist suppression and timeless styling of British tailoring, but generally more fitted and softer, less padded shoulders than our continental brethren. However, if someone comes to us with distinct styling ideas, we will usually happily accommodate them; but we will also give our candid opinions and concerns we may have with those preferences. Ultimately we would not take on a project we did not feel we could execute perfectly.
In the case of all our custom work, we ask for a deposit of 50% at the outset, with the balance upon completion.
When you say you make suits, shirts, sweaters, and shoes in Portland, how much of that process really happens in Portland?
All of it. In the case of our bespoke suits and shirts, 100% of the process, including initial measurements and design, interim fittings, construction and sewing, and even hand-sewn buttonholes takes place in our on-site workshop downtown Portland. Pretty much the only thing we don’t make in-house is fabric, which we source from the best fabric mills in the world (although we’re working on making our own fabric too...). In the case of our bespoke handknitting, we design the custom sweater or hat with the client in our shop, then oversee several individual highly-skilled handknitters in Portland to execute our pattern. Our bespoke shoes are designed and made in Portland by our friend Reid Elrod, with design meetings and fittings taking place in our shop.
Definitely. Because we draft a unique pattern and design each piece from scratch with each client, we are able to fit any body shape perfectly. Our in-house designers and tailors have a variety of training and experience, from traditional tailoring and couture training to contemporary runway collections in New York. This is not your grandfather’s tailoring shop (although we’d still happily design something he’d be proud to wear). Please visit our Bespoke Tailoring page or contact us to learn more.
Absolutely. We love working with people to create the perfect custom garments for their wedding, whether it’s the groom’s perfect “James Bond” tux; a suit from your imagination; or even matching suits, ties, or pocket squares for the wedding party (we’ve even turned a vintage kimono into a tie for the groom and matching pocket squares for the groomsmen). The possibilities are endless.
Our average production times look something like this:
- Bespoke Suits: Three or four fittings over about 12 weeks
- Bespoke Shirts: Two to three fittings over about 10 weeks
- Bespoke Knitwear: One or two fittings over 12-16 weeks
- Bespoke Shoes: One or more fitting over about six months